My Trip to Ireland - April 2001
After 20 years of haunting genealogy libraries, crawling around on library floors to get to the bottom shelves (where my research was usually was located), scanning miles of microfische film, and reading reams of census records, plus sharing information with numerous other Snoddy family researchers via hardcopy snailmail - up pops the internet opening up a whole new world for genealogy research.
I “found” Raymond Snoddy on the internet. At that time, he was a journalist for the London Times, and emailed him – hoping that just maybe he could provide some information. Ray put me in touch with his cousin, Leonard Sluman, who was the local Snoddy family historian of Larne, County Antrim, Northern Ireland.
When I first corresponded with Leonard, he didn't have a computer for email, but he did have a FAX machine. So, we faxed or snail-mailed for a year or so until he got a computer. Then the fun really started. He shared information and photographs of his family. Leonard's grandmother was Margaret "Maggie" Snoddy.
At that same time, I had been corresponding with Lavon Brown (descended from the Winston County Snoddys). She and I dreamed of taking a trip to the old sod, but I never thought it would really happen. But, adventureous Lavon booked her flight to Ireland for May 24-April 8, 2001. After a month of pondering and PANIC, I finally told myself, "I can do this." I pulled myself together and made the commitment to the trip. Thankfully, I was able to get the same flights and seats next to Lavon.
During emails with Lavon and myself, Leonard said that Raymond Snoddy had graciously offered the use of his Antrim Coast Road cottage during our visit. So, we gathered up our courage and off we went to Larne, County Antrim, Northern Ireland. I felt like Dorothy, with Lavon as my Toto, or maybe it was more like I was her Toto. So...dear cousin Lavon, thanks for giving me that push to make this trip. Without you I could never have gotten on that plane!!!
P.S. if it wasn't for Lavon's written outline of our trip, I couldn't have written this story.
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Friday,
May 25th - Upon arrival at the Belfast International Airport, guess what....our
luggage was missing. However, we did take carryon luggage with gifts for everyone
and a change of clothing; so we were sort-of prepared. Our luggage was on a
later flight and was delivered to us.
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Belfast International
Airport |
Leonard and Lily met us at the airport and took us first to their home on Invergordon Terrace, where we met their family: daughter, Marlene, hubby Mike Godwin, and children, Hannah and Tomas; son, David Sluman and wife, Sharon, and their children, Matthew and Daniel. We shared our gifts with them and had our first Irish tea and sweets. Afterwards, Leonard drove us around (it didn't get dark there until 10:30 p.m.). Then he deposited us at the cottage. It was then that I had a major panic attack, and I make Lavon promise that if I died there, she would make sure my body got back to Alabama. I was totally serious. But thanks to panic meds and Lavon, I made it through the night and lived. Thank you God.
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Flag of Ulster* |
*When I asked Leonard about the red hand on their flag, here's the story he told me. The King of England had told two different men that whomever's hand first touched Irish soil, they would own that area of land. To that end, the two ships were running neck-and-neck...one of the men supposedly cut off his hand and threw it to the land; therefore, his hand touched Irish soil first. Now, I don't know if this a true "tale" or one that Leonard made up for this green Alabama gal. (I can just see him grinning now.)
Saturday,
May 26th - We toured around the local area; visiting Gleno village, where
we saw tombstones of Snoddy family. Also, visited Lough Mourne Church and cemetery.
Lavon and I went for a walk around the town of Larne. The building where Matthew
Snoddy, once ran a green-grocers is still standing and was being rennovated.
We managed to snake our arms through a fence and retrieve a piece of rock from
the wall. A souvenir.
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Snoddy Green
Grocer |
Larne Street |
Andrew Snoddy
Livery/Blacksmith |
Black Cave
Tunnel |
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Main Street,
Larne - 1930 |
Gleno Village
Near Larne |
Leonard celebrated his 60th birthday on
Saturday. Marlene had rented a limo for the ride to the restaurant. The roads
there are not very wide and we were amazed that the long car made it around
those narrow, curvy roads. We picked up Auntie Sadie, David and Sharon, ...I
sort of lost track of who all was in the car...I think "everyone".
Anyway, it was very unusual for a limo to be seen there (unless it was someone
famous)...and there were people coming up to car trying to see in...running
along-side the car...we were having champagne in the car and laughing. Then
we drove on to the Linden Heights Restaurant. It's located on a hilltop overlooking
the Irish Sea; a 200-year-old converted house.
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Headed for Birthday Party
in Limo |
Inside Limo, Sadie, Leonard
& Mike |
Sharon, David & Matthew |
At the restaurant, Lavon and I ordered sea bass, never thinking that it would be "head and all". We couldn't eat the thing with it looking at us, so we discretely draped our lettuce over it's face, and proceeded with a delicious meal. Many of Leonard's friends and family were there to celebrate with him. I'm glad they waited and included us in the celebration.
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Auntie Sadie, Leonard,
and Lavon |
Linden Heights Restaurant |
Linden Heights Restaurant |
After a fine night of wining and dining, the limo was dropping us off at the cottage when Leonard suffered a blackout and cut his arm on the antenna of the limo. Since he was on a blood-thinner medication, he was rushed to the hospital and admitted. Put a scare into all of us.
Sunday,
May 27th - Stayed at the cottage until we were collected by Lily about noon.
Lily said Leonard was doing some better, but needed hospital rest. Lily drove
us to Carnfunnock Park and we had a leasurely walk. We had lunch at Lily's,
which was prepared by Marlene. Leonard had sent us a message that he wanted
us to attend his church and then come by to see him. So we did.
Monday,
May 28th - Bonamargy Friary,
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Bonamargy Friary |
Window |
Very Short
Doors |
Retaining
Wall - Entry |
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Burial Yard |
Inside where
monks lived |
Tuesday,
May 29th -
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Tea with the Lord Mayor
of Larne |
Wednesday,
May 30th - Visited Broughshane, Giant's Causeway, famine houses, and peat
bogs. Stopped at bridge and talked with people from Australia. Ate lunch at
the White Park House B&B near the Giant's Causeway. We had steak and mushroom
pie...nummy good. Drove through the seaside towns of Portrush and Port Stewart
and stopped in County Londonderry to pick up shells at Magallen's Point. We
had our first "fish and chips" that evening at a shop close to Leonard's
home.
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Giant's Causeway |
Basalt columns |
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We stopped and had lunch at The Smuggler's Inn |
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Lily Sluman, Carol Byler,
Lavon Brown |
Thursday,
May 31st - We traveled to Balfast to visit the Northern Ireland Parliament
house and were hosted by Roger Hutchinson, the representative from Larne. We
got to sit on the throne chair that Queen Elizabeth and her brother, Prince
Edward sat upon. The throne is in the senate room, which, during WWII, was used
as the control room for the Royal Air Force.
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Lavon and Carol at Stormont |
Senate Room (notice throne
seat) |
Carol sits on the Throne |
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Lavon, Rep. , Carol |
Stormont Front |
Three on the Throne |
Leonard needed to check in with his doctor and we then went to pick up his medications and the only parking place near the pharmacy was "illegal"; but we told Lily to go ahead and we'd stay in the car. Ooops, the traffic warden came up and asked where the driver was...I told him that there was an emergency; that the driver had gone to get a prescription filled for her husband. Lavon told him that we were Americans and didn't know how to drive the car, so we couldn't move it. Since Lavon worked for the police department in Jacksonville, she had brought shoulder patches as gifts...she gave one to the traffic warden...thus, no ticket. As Lily was coming back to the car, she saw the warden and us with the boot opened up...and thought, oh no, ticket. But we sqeeked by that one.
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Friday, June 1st - Had a more laid-back day...needed the rest. Visited St.
Cedma's Church where our ancestors are buried. The church was decorated for
a wedding to be held later that day and the groundskeeper opened the church
for us. The church is over 800 years old. Later on we visited with David, Sharon
and boys, and then visited with Auntie Sadie at her neat little home.
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Inside St.
Cedma's Church |
Altar |
St. Cedma's in 1890 |
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Ceiling at St. Cedma's
Church |
Floor at St. Cedma's Church |
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Wall Around
St Cedma's |
Leper's Window |
Burial Grounds (Snoddy
tombstones in front) |
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Lavon and Carol
with Ancestors |
Leper's (Inside) |
Margaret's Window |
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Front Door |
Back Door |
Fence Detail |
Church detail photos are courtesy of Mr. MacBerm.
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Later that evening, Alison Snoddy Craig and her daughter, Leslie, came by the cottage and visited. I was soooo sleepy, it was all I could do to keep my eyes open (notice that I didn't for this photo). Remember, the sun doesn't set until around 10:30 p.m. over there. Zzzzzzz...zz |
Saturday,
June 2nd - Rode a tour bus to Donegal. Traveled through County Tyrone to
get there. When we crossed over into the Irish Republic, there were soldiers
with guns "everywhere", it was scary. We stopped at Pettigo, where
St. Patrick's Purgatory is located. It's a very remote area and the building
is situated on an island in the middle of a lake.
We arrived at Donegal town, which is very old and not as clean-looking as Larne. The people there were less friendly, more suspicious of strangers. Lavon and I went shopping...what else...I purchased wonderful Irish fishermen sweaters for the family. We walked around the town and passed up a tour of the Donegal Castle, too tired. We ate lunch at a local hotel. There was a group in the center of the park area and of course we were courious and went over. It was the Mayor of Donegal, Alex Reid. We had our photo taken with him and were interviewed by the local newspaper.
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Mayor of Donegal |
Donegal Diamond
(Square) |
Ate Lunch Here |
On the route back to Larne, we had a rest stop in Limavady. Rode past Londonderry, Coleraine, and saw Magellan's Point from a different view than when we passed through earlier, and saw the River Foyle and River Bann.
Sunday,
June 3rd - We stayed at the cottage and rested. Went with Leonard's family
to Carnfunnock Park to listen to brass bands play.
THIS IS A "WORK IN PROGRESS AREA"
Monday,
June 4th - We traveled to the Irish Folk Museum near Belfast.
Tuesday,
June 8th - High Crosses, old church ruins...over 1,000 years old, south
of Belfast, New Grange, Valley of the Kings, burial site, predates the pyramids
of Egypt.
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High Cross
Story |
High Cross |
David, Matthew and Lily |
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New Grange
Burial Mound |
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Entrance to
New Grange |
Just Inside Opening |
Further Down |
Lavon and I waited until we were at the tail-end of the group going in. Took a big sigh, and started in...but, we didn't get very far...we both chickened out. It just kept getting narrower, too narrow and tight...I just knew my big butt would get wedged somewhere and we'd be trapped. Just couldn't make myself go in. We came out of there like two hens being chased out of the hen-house by a fox!!!